Description
For the treatment of pine and spruce floors and parquet floors. Also suitable for brick and stone floors. A much better alternative than floor varnish for old houses. Provides a strong silky matt and easy-to-clean surface. Can also be used in public spaces. Easy to repair and maintain (the floor does not need to be re-sanded). Before the oil has hardened, it can be sensitive to water splashes and dirt.
Instructions for use are included. Otherwise, you can read our article Floor oil under construction bathroom care – do it yourself. Our book Painted Floors also contains all common floor treatments, with material and workmanship descriptions and pictures.
PREPARATIONS
Floor oil is recommended only on freshly sanded or planed surfaces. On older worn surfaces the oil may look uneven. Do the treatment at room temperature, the oil thickens in the cold. The floor should be dust-free, warm, dry and clean during the treatment. Remember that floors are often cold, so you may need to increase the heat slightly when treating them.
DAY 1 – FIRST IRONING
Shake the cloth well.
Apply the oil evenly and smoothly with a wide paintbrush.
Spread evenly over the surface so that the wood is properly saturated (old flooring usually absorbs more than new)
If the floor is still shiny and wet after a couple of hours, pick up the excess with cotton cloths, otherwise a tough film will form. Leave to dry.
DAY 2 – POLISHING
Polish the floor by hand with a sanding cloth. For large areas, you can rent polishing machines with Scotch Brite wheels at paint stores, but you will get the best results if you polish by hand along the length of the boards.
Polishing is necessary to take down irregularities that form when the wood is raised by the oil. Unpolished surfaces are easily soiled and become difficult to clean. Vacuum the floor and wipe off the last dust with a slightly damp cloth. Leave to dry.
SECOND STRIKE
Repeat the oil treatment. When the floor has finished absorbing after a couple of hours, distribute any oil puddles with a brush, polish with a sanding cloth or polishing machine. Any remaining oil stays in the sanding cloth. Leave to dry for 24 hours.
DAY 3 – THE FLOOR IS READY TO USE
ATTENTION! LINSEED OIL-SOAKED RAGS ARE PUT IN WATER OR BURNED TO AVOID SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION

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